Exhibition Spotlight: 18th Century Stays from the Kensington Historical Society

 On View in 'Combing History: Flax and Linen in New Hampshire' 

at the Woodman Museum, Dover, NH. 

By Kimberly Alexander

 

What were stays? 

 

Stays were essentially a stiffened ‘foundation’ undergarment which supported the bust, aligned posture, trimmed the waist, and supported the dress or gown worn above it.  Women (as well as children and some men) of all socio-economic backgrounds wore stays – the design, materials, stitching and mending could reflect this. Generally, stays were not intended for the tight lacing associated with producing a tiny waist (there are always exceptions) but rather to help keep the body comfortable and the appearance neat. Not surprisingly, the shape of stays would change with the prevalent fashion.  The stays on view exemplify one of the exhibitions primary themes of ‘linen seen and unseen’: linen was used as an outer layer, an interior lining (although frequently that has deteriorated and requires scrutiny to see the evidence) and for sewing. 

The identity of the stay maker or makers are currently unknown, but fortunately, the owner of the two pairs of stays have been identified through the Kensington Historical Society. It is likely that Sarah Green (1746-1804) wore both the indigo-dyed, twilled linen stays, and the wool and linen lined, brown-gold stays, c. 1770s-90s. The interiors (not visible in the display) reveal rough hand sewing and linen patching indicating an alteration. The stays were donated by a descendant of the wearer, Sarah A. Green and are on loan courtesy of the Kensington Historical Society, Kensington, NH. 

Thank you to the Kensington Historical Society board and to University of New Hampshire History major and Kensington Historical Society Intern, Mikayla Tilden for making this loan possible.